September 1st, 2016
When the taxi driver finds out both of us are artists he tells us in flawless English that both art museums of the city are closed. However, the Nikola Tesla Museum is open and well worth a visit. The driver praises Tesla as misunderstood genius whose reputation, as well as most of the estate the Americans took away. He tells us how Tesla was a couple of hundred years ahead of his time when it comes to remote controls, electric motors, or wireless electricity. However, the development of wireless electricity was thrown into the shade of Edison's copper wires. The driver then draws up a copper industry conspiracy that actively wanted to forget Tesla's utopia of free electricity available to everyone. Finally, the man warns us of stray dogs that can kill even people. According to him, a 12-year-old girl walking home from school in some remote region in winter was eaten by a pack of hungry dogs.
It's warm and dark in Zemun's Pregrevica when we arrive. Bush crickets' singing creates an intoxicating surround sound at one of the cross streets, over which a large, unknown tree with pinnate leaves reaches out. Danube is a dark gray zone in the darkness. Under a metal gate at the entrance of the wall surrounding the house, an endless belt of reddish-brown ants goes by. Light, wavy grooves cross in the surface of the concrete slab.